Ultimately, I didn’t want to risk my one and only canopy at the very end of the build, but the cockpit’s all there folks.Īs you can see from H.G.'s pics of the Must Have kit, it’s multi-media with a vengeance and will require an expert touch. Unfortunately, you can’t see much of it because I had to build this with a closed canopy. The thing that makes it different from the WSW kit is that I got the styrene cockpit instrument panel and sidewalls from an old 1/48 Sierra Scale Models vacuform kit of the A/C and detailed them to make a fairly accurate cockpit. “Must Have” only put out one other kit that I can recall, and it wasn’t a “must-have” for me.Īnother reason for my wanting an expert hand to make this P-36/H-75 variant is because I already have a Buffalo in Dutch markings. Supposedly, Eduard is coming out with a P-36 series, so we may FINALLY see this aircraft with the correct cowling for a Cyclone engine from a mainstream manufacturer. Sadly, no! He was very kind to me as an ex Curtiss-Wright employee because this is one of the few aircraft C-W made that featured both airframe and engine (and propeller) manufactured by them.
If you look in the archives, you will see his build of the “Must Have” rebox with additions for the Hobby Craft mold, which they said had an accurate front cowling. Jean Luc kindly gave me an extra hand-cast cowling he made for this Wright Cyclone powered H-75 A-7. I have always had a soft spot for small air forces on the losing side, especially the Netherlands East Indies Air Force (NEIAF) which was actually a separate Dutch colonial air force, and not a branch of the KNIL back in The Netherlands. Just curious, why KNIL? Is there something in the Aeroscale water? Another member and I are drooling over news of a Curtiss Demon, and both have stated we plan to build it KNIL. Please leave a like if this helped and ask away if there’s something I misses. Hopefully this bench vise will correct the remaining minor flaws. They swam in scolding water for 3 minutes then flattened. That comes later after sanding.Īn old tire tube piece is sandwiching the resin lower flaps, which were seriously warped. This should speed things up quite a bit.īoth sides done and all that needs to be completed is connecting the dots, literally, on the top and bottom. Sure did a good job hiding it eh?įound some more highly accurate tools to help. The nasty sink line is where the diagonal lines are… as per the rivet guide. Rudder gets replaced with resin, but by leaving on the plastic you have a solid area when pressing down on the riveter or scriber. So, being there is enough film in the can, might as well add pictures to the words.ĭon’t need many words here to see if the effort is worth it.
#REDHAND EPOXY FULL#
Doing a full component, in this case the fuselage, you can match the work done on the other side right away.
This way you get to know the parts and little about how they fit.
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